This guide covers the Seaflo 21 Series 12 V pump installed in your trailer. Your pump is controlled by a Pump switch on the control panel. The fresh water tank is under the bed, and the pump is mounted under the sink in the galley. Water flows from the tank → pump (under sink) → galley faucet. The faucet has its own valve. The pump has a built-in pressure switch, so it can stay ON while you’re camped; it wakes up automatically when you open the faucet and goes back to sleep when you close it.
Important: Always turn the pump OFF for transit (towing) and whenever you’re away from the trailer.
Normal Operation
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Water onboard — Make sure your fresh tank has water.
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Pump ON — Flip the Pump switch on the control panel.
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Use water — Open the faucet valve in the galley. The pump will run only while pressure drops, then stop by itself.
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Camp best practice — It’s fine to leave the Pump switch ON while camped. Turn it OFF at night if you suspect any leaks.
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Before driving / storing — Close the faucet and switch the Pump OFF.
Tip: After the trailer sits or after you’ve drained lines, you may get sputter/air for 10–30 seconds. That’s normal—let it clear.
Safety & Care
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Never run dry on purpose. If there’s no water flow after ~30 seconds, turn the pump OFF and troubleshoot.
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Electrical: The pump is on a fused 12 V circuit. If a fuse is blown, replace only with the same rating printed on the fuse row.
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Leaks: Paper towel under each fitting is a great “leak detector.” Any drip = fix before use.
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Winter: If you see slush or suspect freezing, don’t run the pump until everything is thawed and checked.
Quick Things to Check
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Tank level: There must be water in the fresh tank (under the bed).
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Pump switch: Is the Pump switch actually ON?
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Faucet valve: Is the galley faucet opened when you expect flow?
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Hose path: Follow the suction hose from the tank (under bed) to the pump (under sink), then the outlet hose to the faucet—no kinks, no loose connections?
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Strainer (under sink): Most Seaflo pumps have a clear bowl strainer on the inlet right next to the pump under the sink. If it’s full of debris/air, clean and reseat it.
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Battery: Very low battery = weak or no pump. If lights are dim or your monitor shows low voltage, recharge first.
Troubleshooting by Symptom
1) Pump doesn’t run at all (no sound)
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Pump switch OFF or bad contact → Flip Pump ON; toggle it once.
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Blown DC fuse → Check the DC fuse panel for the “Water Pump” fuse. Replace with the same amp rating.
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Low / dead battery → Recharge or connect shore power and try again.
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Loose wiring at pump → Open the under-sink cabinet and check the two pump power leads.
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Still dead? Turn pump OFF and contact support—could be a failed switch or pump.
2) Pump runs but no water comes out
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Empty tank / closed tank valve → Fill tank; ensure any inline tank valve is OPEN.
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Air-locked / lost prime → Open the galley faucet fully (cold side), run pump up to ~30 sec. If no flow, stop, crack the under-sink strainer bowl to release air, retighten hand-snug, try again.
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Clogged inlet strainer (under sink) → Unscrew the clear bowl, rinse the screen, wet the O-ring, hand-tighten—don’t over-tighten.
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Kinked or reversed lines → Verify the arrow on the pump body points from tank → faucet; fix any sharp bends.
3) Water spits/foams or pressure is weak
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Air in lines → Open the faucet fully and let it run until the stream is steady.
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Low tank level → Refill tank (pickup can suck air when low).
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Clogged aerator (inlet of faucet) → Unscrew, rinse, reinstall.
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Partially clogged strainer (under sink) → Clean as above.
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Battery on the low side → Recharge; diaphragm pumps slow down with voltage sag.
4) Pump short-cycles with all faucets closed (clicks on/off every few seconds)
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Very small leak on the pressure side → Check every fitting from under-sink pump outlet to faucet. Look for damp towels or drips.
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Faucet not fully closed → Turn handle fully off.
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Air leak on the inlet (suction) side → Reseat strainer bowl and inlet fittings under the sink; a tiny suction leak will cause cycling.
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Normal vs not → A brief run every few minutes can be normal; every few seconds is not—chase leaks.
5) Pump won’t stop running
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Open valve or real leak → Confirm the faucet is closed; look for drips in the under-sink area and in the galley.
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Suction-side air leak (under sink) → The pump can’t build pressure if it’s sucking a little air. Reseat/retighten the inlet fittings and strainer.
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Clogged outlet / frozen line → If it’s cold, thaw lines. Check the faucet aerator isn’t blocked.
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If it still won’t stop after checks, turn pump OFF and call support—pressure switch or internal check valve may need service.
6) Pump is noisy or vibrates a lot
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Mounting feet hard against wood/metal → Under the sink, make sure the soft rubber feet are intact and screws are snug (not cranked).
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Pipes touching walls → Add a little slack or a cushion where hoses touch cabinetry.
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Cavitation (growling sound) → Usually suction-side air/strainer issue; clean/reseal the under-sink strainer and confirm a smooth inlet hose path.
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Low voltage → Charge battery; under-voltage makes motors growl.
How to Prime (after draining, filter service, or long storage)
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Fill the fresh tank (under bed).
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Open the galley faucet to the cold side.
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Turn Pump ON and wait up to 30 seconds.
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Once you get steady flow (no spurts), close the faucet.
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Inspect the under-sink strainer and fittings for leaks. Repeat for the hot side if your trailer has one.
If the pump won’t prime: turn pump OFF, remove and fill the under-sink strainer bowl with clean water, reinstall, and try again.
Cleaning the Inlet Strainer (under the sink)
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Turn Pump OFF.
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Place a towel under the strainer.
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Unscrew the clear bowl (hand-tight only).
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Rinse the screen and bowl.
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Wet the O-ring so it seats nicely; reinstall bowl hand-snug.
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Turn Pump ON and check for leaks.
Sanitizing the System (taste/odor issues)
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Mix ¼ cup unscented household bleach per 10 gal of water in the tank.
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Run the faucet until you smell bleach, then let sit 4–6 hours.
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Drain and flush with fresh water until the smell is gone.
Winter & Freezing Weather
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If you suspect a freeze, do not run the pump until thawed and inspected—ice can crack fittings and the pump head.
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For winterizing (RV antifreeze), use only non-toxic RV/Marine antifreeze and follow your trailer’s winterize/bypass procedure. Flush thoroughly before drinking.
Spares & Handy Tools
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Correct-rating spare fuse for the pump circuit
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Towels/paper towels (leak checks)
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Phillips screwdriver; adjustable wrench
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Food-grade silicone grease (for strainer O-ring)
When to Contact Us
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Pump blows the fuse repeatedly
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You smell hot electrical/plastic
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Continuous leaks you can’t locate
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Pump won’t prime after the under-sink strainer procedure
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Continuous running or rapid cycling after you’ve ruled out leaks and air
Quick Recap
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Pump ON while camped, OFF for transit.
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Open faucet valve to use water; the pump runs only when needed.
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Most issues are air/strainer (under sink), empty tank (under bed), or a small leak—check those first.
